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Chitown-Angler
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Joined: 09:32pm - Feb 12,03
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Post Posted: 07:32am - Apr 27,08 
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Musky Mauler wrote:
Try replacing the primer bulb.


yep wsj agrees with his toothy critter friend. :wink:

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Post Posted: 07:49am - Apr 27,08 
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Is the fuel tank a built in tank? If so, check to make sure that the overfill outlet is not being blocked by debris. (The tank needs to breath air in to allow fuel to flow out.
If the fuel supply is from an external tank, the pressure must be high enough to fill the bulb with fuel.

The carbs could be over fueling the engine also.

Bob

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Location: Villa Park

Post Posted: 09:19am - Apr 27,08 
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It has to be somthing stupid, 10$ part that will cost hundreds to find it!!!!!!!!!!could it be as simple as the fuel hook up at the motor, it is making me crazy with all these things going through my brain. I will go cry in my beer tonite and try agian tomorow


I had the same problem with my smaller Merc and it turned out to be alot of sediment in the bowl of the carb. The float was sticking and I wasn't able to get the gas flowing. I changed out the internal fuel lines with new and then a few good rapps on the side of the bowl and away we went! Again like others have said, run some "seafoam" thru it.

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Chitown-Angler
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Location: northwest IN

Post Posted: 08:50pm - Apr 27,08 
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Musky and WSJ it is all new bulb and lines from the tank

Cory the filter I am watching is before the fuel pump so the gas is not making it to the pump, do you think the pump would at least suck the gas into the filter if the floats are stuck?????? I'm kinda thinkin the problem is before the carbs if I pull the line it runs great on the gas left in the line and bulbs??????????

another thing I forgot to post is when the rpms drop and it is running down the motor sounds like its gasping every so often kinda back fire without the pop

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Post Posted: 10:23am - Apr 28,08 
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How is the vent on the tank? You may not be allowing gas to flow if the vent is closed or clogged. Have you tried with a small tank or maybe running with a tank with the hose stuck in it?
It sounds like the tank is not releasing pressure if you can run with the line off the tank

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Post Posted: 11:12am - Apr 28,08 
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My bet is still on the filter....these things clog fast if the crap is running through them. You can keep replacing them, but if the fuel is dirty they will clog fast. You can blow them out no problem, but that is not the same as the pressure pulling the fuel.

My bet is bad fuel due to a dirty tank.

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Post Posted: 07:51pm - Apr 28,08 
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the over flow on the tank is clear so it is letting air flow in but my next trip is going to be with the external tank from my smaller boat to check if somthing is going on with the tank in the boat!!! thanks guy's for all the info!!!!!!

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Post Posted: 08:04pm - Apr 28,08 
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There is usually an antisiphon valve built into the elbow on the tank where you attach the fuel line. Those can gum up and stick. Try pulling that and check it.

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Joined: 11:23am - May 26,06
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Location: Kankakee

Post Posted: 06:07am - May 1,08 
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I agree with fishaholic. I had the same problem on my Mercruiser I/O and it turned out to be the antisiphon valve getting all clooged up with minor varnish and debris. As a short term test, try punching out the ball bearing in the valve and running it open. I ran the tank dry like this a few times, catching the junk in the filters and then put a new valve in. Problem solved!

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Post Posted: 05:46pm - May 1,08 
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hey guy's take a look at page 2 on this thread and see if you can spot it there is alot of crap but I think if it is there you should see if there is a one

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Post Posted: 07:17am - May 2,08 
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HOEH, I'm not seeing the top of your built-in fuel tank in those page 2 pics. An anti-siphon valve is required on all built-in fuel tanks. It screws in to the pick-up tube hard fitting as it exits your tank and then your flexible fuel supply hose will slide over the barbed end and be clamped to it. It doesn't look like much more than a barbed hose connector screwed into the hard fitting exiting your tank. [/img]

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Post Posted: 06:30pm - May 16,08 
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Its been a while since I posted on the project because I have been pulling my hair out trying ti get the motor right, after the fuel pump vro pump carbs and fuel lines have been changed or rebuilt and had the same thing happen I was just about to go for a new motor and took one more look thruogh and saw the switch on the " primer solonoid" the small unit used to fog the motor for winter is half between not all one way or the other. I make a couple phone calls first to find out what the unit was and also to find out if this being half cocked would be the cause,and the couple guy's I spoke with say that that is it, it needs to be open, when it is closed you cant pump the ball at all and being half closed only will let so much fuel through and will restrict flow, and running full out the pump will be working hard enough to pull gas in but when I backed off the throttle, the pump would work half as hard and not pull enough fuel through to keep it going, so I will give it another shot tomorow and see if this is the stupid problem I thought would be death of me!!!!

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Post Posted: 11:22pm - Jan 1,09 
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Alright I went through the rest of the year on the 6 gallon tank I put in temp, I got the boat into the garage and will now start taking up part of the floor to try the anti siphon and all the other hook ups, my Question is did or do any of you have these small round access hatches, the kind where you cut in the base screw it down and the pannel screws on to it, I am looking to find how durable they are they are not an eye sore but if stepped on in the cold will they crack break or what have you. I really dont want to cut the floor up agian :darn

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Post Posted: 12:41am - Jan 2,09 
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before cutting the floor, did you check the vent on the built in tank. I watched a guy with a 36 footer go through the same thing. The engine would shut down and not restart until you loosened the gas cap to relieve the vacuum, then go through the whole thing again. His mind was made up so he fought it all season. Finally we mutinied and held him down while we unplugged the vent. He finally forgave us, but the spider living in the vent didn't. you could hear the air rushing into the tank. The inspection ports are ok, but i don't like them underfoot. good luck. aside from that, lots of boats that size don't have anti-siphon fittings on the tanks.

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Post Posted: 09:09am - Jan 2,09 
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My Trophy has the Inspection port for the tank right in the middle of the floor and it seems to hold up well. Have not been out while cold enough to crack so I cant attest to that. My thought would be to use the smallest possible port.

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Post Posted: 01:14pm - Jan 2,09 
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I missed where you said the vent was clear. I suspect you have a check valve at the tank where the engine is higher than the tank. It is like a little ball bearing and spring and seat. When the spring rusts out, it has a mind of its own. Usually a gizmo about 9/16 or so screwed to the tank draw tube. maybe an inch or so long. As to the primer bulb getting hard, either its full of gas or one of the valves inside it is sticking. There are two valves intake and output. they are retained by the metal bands around the ends. Check the bulb fittings first as the easiest place to start. A little varnish in the valve is all it takes

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Post Posted: 04:17pm - Jan 2,09 
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here is a pic of the hook ups at the tank befor I started cleaning up da mess,
I forget who said they could not see the tank but here is what I am dealing withImageand one more for you guy's to go over and see what you can see Imageand one from front to back
Image

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Post Posted: 09:21am - Jan 3,09 
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Looks like two hoses hooked to tank. one for vent and one for draw tube?? some of the older fuel lines won't take gas with alcohol. If they are rated for alcohol, it will be printed on them. I would replace hoses and remove tank fittings for inspection. It may be like a snowmobile and use a piece of hose with a check valve on end for draw tube. The draw tube may be cracked somewhere near the fuel level and suck fumes when above liquid level or it could swing a little underway and be intermittent. You pretty well pinned it down to a tank/line/bulb valve/ issue by using the portable tank. If the new floor is permanently installed, I would put in the biggest inspection port possible for ease of working through the hole. gasoline is dangerous so be very careful not to make a spark.

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Post Posted: 11:58pm - Jan 16,09 
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That trailer is def. not for that boat.
Looks like it was set on there not driven on. The keel will be banging off the center pice.
I have a shore lander for my 14 ft that looks very similar to that but Looks a lot better. It's a 1993 model.

Are the bunks standing up or flat?
Mine presently stand. I think I'm gonna change that and put some full side boards on the trailer.
Good luck on your project.

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Post Posted: 08:50pm - Mar 18,09 
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Ok after a year of fighting with the whole tank issue I put the portable tank under the seats and will not think about what is wrong with the tank thing. I have 2- 6 gallon tanks that fit in there and will put a valve inline to switch wich one feeds the motor and be done with it. I decided not to tear up the floor and will make due with a 12gal max capacity, just have to watch and see what I can get out of them!!!!!!gonna take it out for the first run this year over the weekend at the ditch and if all is well.......GAME ON!!!! GETDANET I have had it on and off the trailor a dozen times without any probs, a matter of fact it loads like a dream being driven on and off, the split trailor makes it stay way off the mid rail until the last 2 cranks, all thats left after driving it on..

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